The Revival of Signet Rings: A Modern Twist on a Classic Style

Recently, the Duchess of Sussex showcased a new addition to her jewellery collection – a gold signet ring worn on her pinky, featuring an engraving of her and Harry’s joint monogram. She’s not alone in rediscovering this classic accessory. Last year, Zendaya was seen wearing a signet ring engraved with her fiancé Tom Holland’s initials, while other celebrities like Taylor Swift, Jacob Elordi, and Brad Pitt have also been spotted wearing their own signet rings, signaling that this jewelry style is making a strong return.

While signet rings were once commonly associated with men in red trousers, they have long evolved. Designers have reimagined these traditional pieces, creating modern interpretations that resonate with today’s tastes. The inherent versatility of signet rings, combined with their ability to carry sentimental value, is especially appealing in contemporary fashion.

Modern Signet Rings: Playful and Personal

Cece Fein-Hughes, the founder of Cece Jewellery, believes people are attracted to the rich history of signet rings but prefer a more modern and playful twist. “There’s a noticeable shift toward signet rings that feel fresh and personal, whether through vibrant enamel, unexpected motifs, or hidden engravings,” she explains. This trend reflects the growing desire for simpler, bold pieces, especially those that can be customized.

Jewelry trends seem to be moving away from complex layering in favor of striking, easy-to-wear items, and signet rings offer endless possibilities for personalization. “In a way, signet rings act as witnesses to time,” says Noor Fares, a fine jewelry designer. She finds them fascinating because of how they connect the wearer to their heritage. The signet rings she creates allow the wearer to add their own personal meaning, such as incorporating a birthstone or symbol tied to a significant memory.

Signet Rings Through History

Though designers are modernizing signet rings, they aren’t entirely reinventing the wheel. Emmet Smith, the founder of Rebus, a workshop specializing in bespoke signet rings, notes that signet rings have a long and storied history. Originally, they were considered the ‘gentleman’s ring’ and were often a symbol of family heritage. However, signet rings have existed far longer than heraldry itself, with examples found in ancient Egypt and Greece. These early rings often featured engravings of hieroglyphs or images of deities and mythical creatures.

Historically, signet rings were used to seal letters, with their family crest or coat of arms engraved in reverse. This ensured that the seal could not be forged and served as a mark of authenticity. Often, a signet ring would be destroyed or buried with its owner after their death.

Personalization: Beyond Family Crests

In modern times, the requirement for a family crest is no longer a necessity for wearing a signet ring. According to Daniella Draper, a contemporary jeweller, signet rings are now accessible to a broader audience. “The variety of designs available today makes them suitable for both men and women, and they can be worn on different fingers,” she says, emphasizing that signet rings are more attainable than ever.

For those without a traditional family crest, workshops like Rebus offer the chance to create bespoke signet rings that are deeply personal. Smith explains that customers can work with the workshop to incorporate sentimental elements into the design, such as a significant date, a cherished pet, or even lyrics from a favorite song. “Creating a mood board or collecting images is a great way to start the process,” he suggests. Inspiration can also be drawn from Victorian reference books or social media platforms like Instagram and Pinterest.

Endless Possibilities

The creative potential with signet rings is virtually limitless. Smith’s workshop has taken on some of the most imaginative commissions, including designs like an origami bear holding a diamond-set pineapple or a skeleton leaning against a rhino, eating radishes. These quirky designs showcase the versatility of signet rings and how they can reflect individual tastes and personalities.

Whether opting for a bold, unconventional motif or a more classic design, the key is to make it meaningful. As Noor Fares puts it, “Signet rings are not just about fashion; they are an extension of the self and will stand the test of time.”